The D4s …To Buy, or Not To Buy

photo courtesy Nikon

photo courtesy Nikon

Every time Nikon announces a new camera body, I brace myself for the onslaught! At this moment, just shy of 800 emails have filled my email box asking about the D4s. “Should I buy it,” “Is it better than ….” and my favorite “Can I buy your D4.” And while these any many more questions are good questions and important to you, you have to understand I don’t even approach a new body asking these questions. I ask one simple question when I get a new body to test, “Does it solve problems the gear I shoot now doesn’t solve?” For example, if you follow the blog, you know that I’ve gone head for heals for the Nikon Df. My good friend Kevin after shooting this entire past week in Moab said, “Surprised you shot with the Df the entire time, must be good.” And for travel, portraits, hiding in the shadows and many other things, the Df is better than the D4. When it comes to critters, aviation air to air and action, the D4 is better and that’s why I have both in my bag. So now, for me the question is, “Where does the D4s fit in?”

Yes, the money matters but I didn’t get into photography to get rich (and that’s going as planned) so spending money for gear is a necessary evil to accomplish why I am in photography, storytelling. How will the D4s help with that, what will it do for ME and MY photography in that endeavor? I have ideas looking at the specs but until I have the body in my hand and can do my own real world shooting will I know. And that’s the point. Buying something just because it’s new (photographically speaking) just never made sense to me. Ya, I did it once and I ended up at times with gear I couldn’t use and a wallet that was not happy. That’s why I started to rent/borrow and try all gear before I buy. How can you do that with the D4s? You could join me on a workshop and try mine, but that’s a limited time. Better would to be call up the folks at Borrowlenses.com and rent the D4s from them. Now with the sound of that 11fps and giant buffer alone is worth the price to me, it surely might not be for you so you need to try before you buy. I wish I had all the answers and while I have a lot, when it comes to your acquiring a D4s and being the best for you, I don’t. So, many of those emails asking me about the D4s are being returned with no real answers. B&H says they should be shipping the D4s 6 March, that’s next week so we’ll soon have more answers. Buy the tools that solve your photographic problems and you will have the right tool for you!

GearHead Wednesday 14-08

GearHead

Got a gear question you want answered? I want to help and answer it. Send your gear questions to me at Gear Questions and I’ll do my best every Wednesday to answer as many questions as I can. Keep in mind the answers are just my $.02 worth and you have to take what works for you and your photography and embrace it and ignore the rest. So here’s this weeks questions ….

What’s with that switch?
What’s the difference between the A/M position vs. the M/A position on the focus mode switch of the 80-400mm Nikon lens? As near as I can tell there’s more force required to manually focus in the A/M position … is that correct?
Adam

MA_switchAdam, to be straight up honest with you, I just never have understood this too. The idea behind these switches is to provide manual focus operation while still in autofocus mode. This is how Nikon explains A/M An “autofocus-priority autofocus” mode that reduces the sensitivity of the manual override to prevent unexpected switching from auto to manual and M/A AF-S NIKKOR lenses feature Nikon’s exclusive M/A mode, that allows switching from autofocus to manual operation with virtually no time lag – even during AF servo operation and regardless of AF mode in use.. As I’ve experienced it, the A/M is more sensitive to the touch, which is why I always use the M/A option. As for making the manual focus more difficult, that I personally don’t find on my 80-400.

The gray skies blues
Hi Moose,
I don’t think my question is a gear question, but love reading the articles. I have a suggestion for another weekly article- Technique Tuesday. This question may have a gear answer though. I have had the opportunity to travel quite a bit the past few years for my own work as well as tagging along with my wife’s work. We have also taken vacations to some amazing places (New Zealand, Ireland, Iceland), but the travel is typically work focused so I may only have a few hours or a free day to shoot. I am at the mercy of the weather and season so I shoot regardless of the conditions since I may never get back to the location. My question is how to photograph landscapes when the skies are solid overcast. Skies that are grey without detail. I have tried post processing in lightroom and photoshop to bring out any detail that might be there, but still end up with photos that look flat. I shoot in RAW, which helps in some situations. Typically I will just have an UV filter on the lens when it is overcast. Are there other filters that would help? Camera settings? I shoot a D7000 in Aperture mode 90% of the time.
Thanks,

Scott

Alabama Hills 0137

Scott, there are so many versions of “gray” skies that I don’t have a blanket answer for you. There is no “gear” answer for your question sorry to say. It’s a photographic question that has to do with subject, light, storytelling and a whole lot more. I would suggest you try using Clarity in ACR and/or Nik Color Efex > Detail Extractor on just the gray sky and see if that brings out what you’re looking for.

That AF Button
Do you ever use ‘back button AF’ and if so when do you use it?
James

James, I sure don’t. No matter how I’ve tried (and I have) I simply can’t master using that button. I know hundreds of shooters who can, I’m simply not one of them.

Hi Moose,
Love your new GearHead Wednesday posts!
I have been reading your book “Captured” and have learned a ton from it. It is clear from you book that one area I need to learn more about to improve my wildlife (especially bird) photography is the use of flash. In reading the book and some of your blog posts, I see that you are using an SB-910 speedlight and the e4 custom setting on your Nikon bodies to decouple the flash exposure compensation from the body compensation.

It would be great if you could provide a quick overview for those of us who don’t have high-end Nikon cameras/speedlights on how we might at least get started with flash – for example are there some things you can do with fill flash even if you don’t have e4 and an SB-910 available to you?

Mike, there is no way to that I know of to duplicate this operation which is why it is so important. Computers make all the difference! To do it any other way would mean to go to all manual flash photography and that’s a lesson WAY too long for a blog post.

· On a camera specific question – it looks like the D7100 I just got does have the e4 capability – is this the same capability that you talk about with the D3, D4, etc. bodies?
-yes
· If so, can I successfully use that with my SB-700 speedlight (and a Better Beamer) for wildlife flash? (I’m not sure what the SB-910 has in the way of capabilities I might need vs. my SB-700.)
-yes

I guess overall I am looking for your flash recommendations for those of us who are getting started and can’t afford a D4/SB-910 – what would be a suitable starting point.
Thanks!

Mike

Mike, that answers you seek and in much greater depth are in the book you have, Captured. The place to start is in your own home photographing simple objects you have control over. Flash is real easy, it’s the mind that makes it difficult. Start with the camera having complete control and once you understand what that delivers, start to take control of it all. But this is not a gear question but a much bigger one, that of light and exploration. Follow the Teddy Bear Exercise in the book and start to see the light that works for your storytelling.

D4s Now Available for PreOrder!

photo courtesy Nikon

photo courtesy Nikon

On display last month, the D4s is now available for PreOrder. IMHO, it is much more than just a “upgrade under the hood” going from the specs available. I’ve not hand one in my hands and really looking forward to it. Without doubt … more to come!

Simple Click – Just Had to Go Click

DLCUTCR0455

>There are times when I’ve just gotta go click. It’s the same as having to pinch oneself to make sure you’re awake. The beauty that surrounds us at times simply goes beyond the photo and just is. This is not a great photo, this is just a beautiful moment that will always be more gorgeous in the heart than a pixel.

BT Journal 13.1 Storm Chasing Now Posted

13.1cover

The next back issue is now available, it’s all about Storm Chasing and one of my favorite issues. This is a back issue, it’s not part of your subscription. Brent & I have mapped out a real aggressive production schedule this year. The next issue in the subscription will be out in about 45 days, the end of March. This includes getting it out for the Andriod which is still in progress. Enjoy!

Remember, 13.1 was released quite a while ago so it is actually at the bottom of the page in the BT Journal app!

Have a look at the Digital BT Journal with a free premiere issue available now!

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