Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
The 70-180 is simply put, a killer lens! It is so physically small, so bloodly tack sharp and it goes to nearly 1:1, it’s a real bummer the AF is dog slow. On the digital platform, the 70-180 delivers nearly a 1:1 reproduction and with the Nikon 6T does it with amazing image quality. We’re talking great corner to corner performance and for a zoom, pretty remarkable. It’s a great macro lens with a great working distance. But whether you focus at infinity, MFD or any point in between, the very flat plane characteristics of the 70-180 make it a stand out lens. I know many a 70-180 owner who think it is the sharpest lens they own (probably why they bring in more used then what they cost new).
But no, it doesn’t focus fast! I typically have the lens in manual focus mode in fact. It is an f4.5 lens, so it’s not fast in that respect either. It’s amazing sharpness and small, compact nature more than make up for its slowness. It also doesn’t work with any of the current teleconverters so it is what it is when it comes to focal length. That’s why regretably it rarely get’s out of the studio but it’s such a gem, I just can’t get rid of it, in fact, I have a backup just in case. I just love this lens!
Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
The Epson P7000 is an essential tool to me to do everything from image storage, backup and transportation to teaching. There isn’t a trip I do not have it with me along with 4 spare batteries. It is just that important to my workflow. Why is there a cable behind it. You can shoot with the P7000 tethered which is so bloody cool.
Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
There is no more essential tool or lens to the wildlife photographer than the 600mm lens. I can say with firm conviction that the 600VR AFS is a must own lens for wildlife photographers! Past iterations of the 600mm lenses when they were released didn’t always make it into my camera bag, they didn’t solve “the” problem for the price (have no problem recommending the 600AFS II!). That’s because not every new version brought a new or better solution to the same old problem. What’s the old problem? Not that is can be summed up in one word, but basically the problem is, getting a tack sharp image of a small subject up close. The MFD of the 600VR being three feet less (now we’re down to 15.7’) than the 600AFS II instantly makes it a problem solver. When you add to that its amazing sharpness, AFS speed and balance, it’s just a beautiful lens!
I’ll be upfront here, Nikon did me a huge favor and got into my hands one of the first production 600VR AFS as soon as it came in which I was more than happy to pay for after the first click. Why did I want one right away, what did I know? I had inside information. My dear friend and shooting bud Joe McNally shot an IP 600VR II while shooting for the D3 brochure. Once the announcement was out about the D3, Joe talked to me about the 600VR AFS and when Joe talks photography, you listen! Joe knows I’m a lens connoisseur (it’s his fault I had to have a 28f1.4AF since he loaned me his prior to my owning one) and he put it real simple to me, “I can’t see you not having it.” So hence, it’s in my hands now.
What does VR II mean? I have to admit, I missed that little II thing when I first read the announcement in regards to the VR part of this new lens. The 400, 500 & 600 VR II have two modes for VR operation (VR being turned on or off via a barrel ring), Normal and Tripod mode. The majority of owners of this lens I presume (probably pretty accurately) they won’t be shooting with the 600VR II handheld, but rather on a tripod. With that presumption, most would put the VR mode to Tripod since the lens is on a tripod it must equal Tripod mode. That seems all too logical to me. Wrong! Close reading of the IB for the 600VR, you’ll read that if you’re doing any panning, you need to be in Normal mode. Making a phone call to Nikon to clarify all of this for myself, Tripod mode is for only when you’ve locked the tripod, tripod head and lens on one subject (like a rock or landscape) and nothing, nothing is moving. All other times, you want the lens’ VR set to Normal. The II in VR II come from this new generation of the new “Tripod” setting, Normal & Tripod = II. (Note, using the Autofocus On buttons on the lens barrel turns off VR operation).
The 600 VR II also sports a new manual focus override mode (as well as the 400/500). You have the option of A/M and the well established M/A mode. What’s the difference? M/A permits you to manually focus to fine tune focus while still in autofocus mode. A/M does the same thing but, it has a less sensitive touch to your taking manual focus control as the M/A. So if you’re handholding and you hold the focusing ring while hand holding, you won’t disengage the AF easily in the A/M mode compared to the M/A mode. Personally, I’ve not found a whole lot of difference in operation, but I’m still playing with it. With using either mode, operation is still the same to reengage AF, simply remove your finger from the shutter release and than lightly touch it again to reinstate AF operation. Right now, I’m using the A/M mode because it’s new and I don’t know which is the better problem solver.
How does it work with teleconverters? Just as you would expect. With the TC-14e or TC-17e or TC-20e3, the sharpness is stunning. AF operation with the D3x, D3s or D3 with current firmware is pretty amazing to me, especially remembering back just a few years to when it wasn’t even possible. With the 1.4 & 1.7, I work in any light level with an AF sensor with the 3x & 3s no problem. I don’t have that much time in with the 2x to say the same thing about it yet. But the image results from all there converters attached to the 600VR is far better then any long lens / converter combo in the past.
You’ll notice the 600VR is wearing a LensCoat. This killer accessory protects your investment while at the same time looks good. It’s a no-brainer! You will also notice the lens foot has been replaced with the RRS LCF-13. And the last thing you should note, I don’t use the second, the largest shade. This is for many reasons, the main ones being I don’t need it and its diameter doesn’t fit in the overhead of more commuter flights.
It’s hard these days to keep up with the Jones with so many new bodies and lenses coming on the market. Making the most of your buying dollar is very important. I know I’m filling the strain! You’ve got to ask yourself, is focusing three feet closer, VR and better balance worth the price of an upgrade or new lens? Strictly talking from a business stand point, those owning this lens will technically have an advantage, it will produce better images especially for those with poorer long lens technique. Those with solid long lens technique in combination with good biological skills will make this lens an essential tool to their success. Bottomline, for the wildlife photography it’s a must have lens!
Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
Quite often I am asked how I take my product shots. It’s nothing real elaborate or fancy, it just get’s the job done. I like the lighting pattern Nikon typically uses in their product shots so I’ve just mimicked it. The lighting is all done by SB-900s. The top on shooting through a Lastolity EZYbox has it’s diffuser dome and is on Channel 1, Group A. The SB-900 on the left is likewise going through a Lastolite EZYbox and is Channel 1, Group B. The SB-900 on the right is shooting through a Lastolite Umbrella and is Channel 1, Group C. The umbrella is 1/3 the distance further away from the product then the light box on the left. The Upper lightbox goes up and down with the size of the product, always just out of frame. All is controlled and fired by the SU-800 which is attached to the D3s. I shoot with the 70-180 macro, a killer sharp lens and since it’s a macro and a zoom, it makes shooting real simple.
Depending on the lighting desired, exp comp is dialed into the SU-800. In this scenario where I wanted a white background, all the flashes were set at 0 exp comp. In this little studio, I was able to shoot everything in the camera bag in 90min. It took longer to remove dust from the gear than make the shot.
Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
This is simply just the coolest tool, flash I’ve ever used. I just wish I had a reason to use it more often. It comes out perhaps a half dozen times a year when i have small critters, subjects to photograph. You can use the SB-200 flash units anytime, anywhere TTL but I just use it for macro work. It attaches right to the front of the lens with the units rotating on the ring whereever you need to place them. They are fired with the SU-800 which is a great unit. I have a couple of them which get used as part of the R1C1 kit or to fire off SB-900s in other setups. You’ll notice I have diffuser material in place in the flash units. It’s always there to soften the light even more.
Jan 1, 2010 | Field Reports
02.15.10
The SB-900 or flash is an incredibly important tool to wildlife photographers. There’s a ton on the web already on the SB-900 so at this time, don’t have anything more to add but will for wildlife photographers in the future. The SB-900 has this special accessory, the WG-AS1. The purpose of this is to provide protection in wet conditions. The SB-900 handles white balance in a whole new way (and comes with a filter holder that fits inside the soft light dome!) which includes the camera body settings. It has 3 illumination patterns along with a 200mm zoom capability. It doesn’t have a 5th battery compartment but does have the new SD-9. And there is the much heralded better control buttons, switches and panel info. It is THE flash!
