My Workflow ’18

It’s a continual question, “What’s your workflow?” As my boys will say, I’m just a machine because I get through my images so bloody fast. How fast? A 4000 image air to air shoot shot in the afternoon will be by bedtime, edited, filed, renamed and backed up. How do I do it so fast? There are two main factors, the first and main one is, I only take those images I like. This is really, really important. When I watch folks go through their images, they spend a helluva a lot of time looking at this or that image, cropping, moving sliders, wondering if they like the image. I’m not doing that, I’m just flying through them. When I go through my images I only have to ask myself one question and do one action. Is it sharp or not? If sharp I just click forward and if not, it gets deleted. It’s that simple for me. As my boys say, I cheat!

I’m really never sure just what is really being sought after in the question “What’s your workflow” because what I do isn’t going to work for everyone. It really is a lot like the image creation process itself which varies as we all know from photographer to photographer. It all depends on what you want in the end that determines all that comes before. So before I explain my workflow, understand what my end goal is all about.

Sharon & I are fresh back from the Grand Tetons. When I hit the office after being on the road for a week, I had 5k images from our trip all edited, renamed, filed and backed up. This is because I have a market for those images as soon as I hit a reliable internet. From clients, the blog and presentations, they were on their way out. The only way I could make that all happen was to have the images edited, renamed, filed and backed up prior to hitting the office. The end goal of my images is to share them, get them out and this can only be done if all the backend work is completed.

What’s the nuts and bolts of making this happen for me? Well, I told you the first, I only take those images I like. The other is having the hardware and software that permit me to click as fast as my finger will go. Understand the vast majority of my editing (edit means going through images deciding which to keep or delete. Finish means going into the digital darkroom) work is done on the road using the Mac Retina. It simply screams, is small, light and highly efficient and that’s critical. At the end of a shoot I plug in the XQD card from the D5 or Z7 (my primary bodies) and there I keep the speed going. Shooting the Lexar 128GB XQD card, I only need to plug in the one card to a Lexar Reader because 128GB pretty much holds an entire day shoot. I might have a SD cards from the D850 from shooting video. These two are large Lexar 256GB SD cards and go into the SD slot on the Retina. All of this adds up to one thing for me, speed! Cause with all of this, all I need to do when I launch Photo Mechanic, the only DAM that flies as fast as I can click, is once launched hit Cmd (Ctrl) G which brings up the Ingest dialogue, select all the cards I have loaded and hit Ingest. Photo Mechanic is radically fast that before I can blink, all the images and videos are ingested. I use settings in Photo Mechanic to speed everything up, little things like Erasing and Undocking the XQD / SD card when upload is completed to inserting IPTC info. I make the tools work for me so I can get to the images, fast.

Then it’s time to edit the images or as I think of it, delete those that are not sharp. I hit the F key twice in Photo Mechanic which puts the images in full-screen mode. Then I just click forward as fast as I can. In doing this, you see the out of focus real fast. I normally go past the out of focus image I’m clicking so fast which is part of the process. I click back to the out of focus image which permits me to double check, then I delete it and keep moving forward (you can use Cmd (Ctrl) Z to zoom in). As I go through images, I Cmd+1 tag those that I like and want to finish and most likely print at some point (You can see those tagged images above, they are in red). You can customize the toolbar in Photo Mechanic so I have the backward / forward / trash can right next to each other so I can click as fast as I can to get through the images. I can get through about 2000 images in 30min. With that all done, the images are moved/filed to their appropriate folders when they are renamed. And now with the IoSafe 1515+, I can access that from anywhere to speed up this process which includes uploading really important files I want to be protected. That’s my workflow.

On all my computers, I have created a Temp folder on the C Drive. This is very important to my workflow. Once all the images have been filed and renamed, I click to select just those images tagged in that folder. With a Cmd A and a Cmd Y, all those tagged images (the Nefs) are copied to the Temp Folder. I then close Photo Mechanic and launch Photoshop CC2019. I use Bridge which is pointed to the Temp folder. Here, all the Nef copies I just created from Photo Mechanic reside. I click on 1 to 30 images and hit Return. The selected file(s) are opened in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) where I do the majority of the finishing work. For example the air to air images from North Dakota, there was a lot of dust. Using the dust detection in ACR, I dust just one image and then when I sync them all, all the images are dusted along with any other finishing applied. It’s bloody fast!

The images are then opened in PS where with a simple click a Save As is performed, saving the files back to the Temp Folder. When I’m all done, the PSD files are moved to a Gallery Folder (I use the 2Tb Buffalo Thunderbolt drives which rock!) and the Nefs (remember they are a copy) and XMP files left in the Temp folder are deleted. For me, this is all very quick and when being done late at night after a day of shooting, easy which is important. And that, in a nutshell, is my workflow. Probably more than you wanted but hope it helps.

Argh – Not Again!

I was in Florida with my best friend Harry photographing herons. We came upon this great Green Heron feeding amongst some giant leaves. Killer shot except the huge reflections of the gray sky in the leaves. No problem, run back to the car (I wasn’t completely stupid, had Harry make the run), grab polarizer and bam, problem fixed. The only problem was, I had packed the wrong one, I had grabbed the wrong case with the wrong polarizer leaving the right one at the office! Argh!!! The worst thing, this wasn’t the first time I’d done this to myself. Double argh!!!

I know this is obvious, recommended it to others before and was just reminded myself of it packing for Alaska. I have two drop-in filters for my 800mm and 180-400VR and as you can see, the cases I have them in look identical. And if you peak in the case from the top, the tops of the drop-in filters look identical as well. The solution is really simple, label the cases! Yes, darn obvious but for some reason us photographers, and I’m a prime example of this, tend to make things harder for ourselves. I try to learn from my mistakes keeping myself from mumbling under my breath, not again!

Green Heron
captured by D5 / 800mm / no polarizer … argh

Note: these are old cases I had in the filter drawer that I’m using. The Drop-in filters are wrapped in a lens cloth and then slipped into the case.

Nikon Z7 / Z6 Sensor Cleaning

photo courtesy Nikon

“My Sensor Loop doesn’t work with my Z7” is flooding my inbox. That’s because not only are our sensor loops too small in diameter, their magnification is designed for the distance of our DSLR mirror boxes. So if you’re like me and shooting the bejiggers out of your Z7, checking and cleaning your sensor is a priority. What do you do? Since I’ve done so many videos and a whole Kelby Class on cleaning, I seem to be the natural choice in seeking help. Well here’s the catch to sensor cleaning:

That pharse “poke it” has even stopped me in my tracks! I simply don’t have an answer yet because the sensor of the Z7 / Z6 is on a five point gimble. My imagination (because I don’t have the facts) is that putting pressure on that sensor for normal wet swab cleaning runs the risk of not only scratching the sensor, but messing up that five-point gimble. So the question remains, what do you do?

First is the challenge of holding our sensor loops the right distance from the sensor to see dust. Then if we see dust, first run the camera’s Clean Sensor Now menu option until is grays out or no longer permits you to run this option. If that doesn’t do it for you, use a blower bulb to blow dust off. Use caution as you can’t insert the bulb as far as you do with your DSLR. And if that doesn’t work, at this point do as the IB suggests and have it professionally cleaned. Once I have another solution for you, I’ll post it.

Obvious to Everyone But Me

Mono Lake Basin
captured by Z7 / Z24-70

Now that I am shooting all my landscapes with a mirrorless camera, certain obvious things are coming to light I’m sure others know. But for those who don’t, when you take the lens off the body, the sensor is directly exposed to the elements, in this case rain and snow. With no mirror to protect it, these elements which include dust, land directly on the sensor. This could be a disaster! Especially when the instruction book warns in many places, “Don’t Poke” the sensor. This all occurred to me photographing Mono Lake Basin with the Z7 / Z24-70 and a rain drop hit me square in the eye as I was removing the FTZ. Now that I thought about it , it’s obvious to me!

My Initial Z7 Settings

“I can’t find the “Mirror Up Sensor Cleaning” setting, help?” Yep, it’s time to post my initial Z7 settings when that question hit my inbox. Ah, just to answer that question … it’s a MIRRORLESS camera!

The Z7 settings are really not all that different from your Nikon DSLR which is cool. Some familiar DSLR button functions like Format Card, are not on the Z7. And certain settings like Silent Shutter & High-Speed Extended disable the flash. And there are some new settings like Lens control ring Custom control assignment or N-Log that might make you wonder. Hopefully, my initial Z7 Z7 settings will help you.

Note: Settings “finalized” 10.05.18

Manual Viewer has been updated with the Z7 so be sure to download it for quick and easy reference!

Incredibly Fun Morning with the Z7

B-26 Invader
captured by Z7 / Z24-70

Ft Worth Camera and Nikon brought me into Ft Worth for the weekend to talk aviation photography. We had a Friday night presentation and a Saturday shoot at the Vintage Flying Musuem. Though it rained the entire time, luckily for us we had two massive hangars of subjects to work with. Better yet for me, my good friend Terrence had a preproducton Z7 / Z24-70 for me to shoot with. It’s my first opportunity to shoot real world work with the Z7 which I’ve been dying to do ever since the launch! This is how I made the most of my time, something that might help you with your next body purchase.

B-24 Liberator
captured by Z7 / Z24-70

The last thing you want to do is take your new camera out of the box and just start shooting! Terrence handed me the Z7 / Z24-70 the night before the shoot. This permitted me to go through all the settings in the camera and learn them, play with them and set them to my preferences BEFORE shooting. What if you don’t know what settings to use? You could head to my D850 Settings and suprisingly, set many of the Z7 the same and you’ll be fine. Part of the brilliance of the Z7 is it’s so like your Nikon DSLR! Yes, the Z7 has some unique and killer settings unique to it (I’ll post those later) but this will get you up and shooting. And that’s what I did and it worked great because I had a great time shooting.

C-49
captured by Z7 / Z24-70

The first thing I wanted to photograph was the eight .50 cal guns on the B-26. I needed to get higher but there was no ladder so I went with “over the head, fold out monitor” technique. You can do that with many cameras these days but the first thing I noticed shooting with the Z7 was there was no mirror slop. Holding a camera over your head is far from proper hand-holding but it was so much easier shooting with no mirror bouncing about, I was sold! I then started shooting holding the camera at the ground to see if the mirrorless benefit worked shooting that awkward method. It was brilliant! With that instant affirmation that the Z7 is a valid tool, I went to work. The first thing I wanted to prove to myself that the Z7 and in this case, shooting with the Z24-70 captured the light, color and sharpness my clients have come to expect from my images. It most certainly does! I really love the color (shooting Auto Natural Auto WB), shadow detail and blackness and really sharp files I captured. I shot all hand-held from ISO 64 – 400 at f/4 to f/22. Going through all I shot, I have no reservation that they will produce gorgeous 24×30 prints (which I can’t wait to make).

The best part of my Z7 / Z24-70 experience which I shared with all the folks was that after four hours of shooting, I didn’t feel beaten up working with a heavy rig! I shot laying on the floor to up a top of a ladder. Even through we were in just two hangars, I walked just shy of two miles. The whole time shooting with the Z7 / Z24-70 and its small size and weight was like, wow, almost nothing compared to my DSLR rigs. I’m loving that aspect of the mirrorless experience. I have a lot more to report from my moring shoot with the Z7 / Z24-70 but the most important to me was, it was simply an incredibly fun morning! mtc

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